The Hollandaise Sauce

First up the technical stuff – hollandaise is a butter sauce and it has a delicate rich flavour composed of butter and eggs adding lemon juice or vinegar. Hollandaise is not thickened with flour but with the emulsion of the butter and the liquid. Flavours are infused in the vinegar and reduced.

Slowly, slowly when you're adding the butter. If it should split or curdle take the mixture off the heat and add a fresh egg yolk to bring it back.

The Hollandaise

5 fl oz of white wine vinegar

6 peppercorns

1 bay leaf

1 blade of mace – optional

4oz unsalted butter

3 egg yolks

salt and black pepper

Put the vinegar and seasonings into a pan and reduce it to 1 tablespoon, then strain. Using a stick blender process the yolks with the reduction. Clarify the butter (in other words melt the butter in a small saucepan, a milk pan is ideal as it has a pourer). Normally you'd use clarified butter but it's not essential, you can use the whey. If you tip the pan gently when the butter has melted you'll see the golden butter and the whey which has separated. Pour the butter slowly onto the yolks, blending as you go. Season well.

A hollandaise should be served warm, not hot.

Needless to say this sauce takes time but it's well worth the trouble – a perfect weekend breakfast or brunch. Traditionally the benedict was served with ham but these days it is just as popular served with smoked salmon.

Coming next … the best tip and a photo or two.